A Crazy Little Thing called Love

Published on 22 May 2024 at 16:24

This blog article was originally written for Robin Pope Safaris (RPS) “Its Monday” weekly blog. I have published the story on Facebook previously.

This is the story of how two doctors fall in love with South Luangwa. The story begins just over a decade ago. It’s Monday the 22^ndOctober 2012.

Seeking adventure, Keith and I naïvely believe that a self-drive safari might unlock the secrets of the Zambian bush. Our roof tent seems to offer us comfort and some style. We find wilderness in Kafue. We certainly find self-reliance and thrill. Our low bar of expectation is met. But the Zambian game stays elusive. And there is something else missing too. Professionals.

Our itinerary snakes through promising lands. The long drive from Kafue to Mfuwe seems endless. The sun tucks itself beneath the Western horizon as we pitch our tent and light our barbecue. Beside the Luangwa River. Baboons and elephants locate us within minutes. Or at least they locate our food. A daring male baboon grabs a bag of chicken thighs and heads for a nearby tree. Keith’s alpha voice booms. The baboon’s resolve shaken, he surrenders his prize. A tip-toeing mother elephant seems to prefer cooked food. She ventures out of the gloomy bush, calf in tow. I, now alpha, command Keith to beat a hasty retreat to the Land Rover. The food, again surrendered, does not pass elephant muster. Mother elephant is seeking greens. The barbecue food is left to the hungry alpha primates.

Our story is about to get to its nub. We are not totally green to Africa. Voluntary Service in Tanzania in the 1990s had ignited something of an obsession for us both. Wild Africa holds a fascination. The lure of the African bush smoulders in our hearts and summons us again and again. Twenty years later, South Luangwa offers us the Holy Grail of safari experiences. Untamed bush. The professionalism of the Robin Pope team. Leopard heaven and havens.

After the perils of self-driving, we opt for a substantial upgrade. A 3 day treat to reward our adventurous spirits. The RPS hub of Nkwali whets our appetites. The prehensile dexterity of an elephant trunk gathering grass in the Nkwali lagoon is spellbinding. Keith and I are instant converts to the Robin Pope experience. Tena Tena delivers the ultimate in opulent comfort and style. A new high bar is set with expert guiding, and wildlife in South Luangwa.

At dusk the Hollywood pride shares an aperitif with us off-duty docs. Then, one by one, the peckish felines yawn and stretch. And stroll off into the darkness. Nyambe, our guide, suggests that gin and tonic in hand might impede the chase. A quick swig and the glasses are stowed. The pursuit is on. Following the stealthy predators in the gloom is no mean feat. The red search light barely picks them out. Predicting their behaviour is a honed art. Nyambe leaves the bright lights off until the death knell. Then as the lead lioness strikes, the search light pinpoints the gory action. An impala impaled with claw and tooth. Drawn and quartered by ravenous females. But then, the male asserts and takes the lion’s share.

Happily sated after our own haute cuisine, Keith and I sit with Bertram on the dry riverbed at Tena Tena. Surrounded by darkness. The campfire roars. Our attention, initially focussed on the wealth of experience and knowledge that our host is sharing, is torn away by a different roar. Our chests shake. Is that lion too close? Bertram shakes his head briefly. But the second roar causes the shake to become a nod. In fact, the whole pride chooses to adopt Tena Tena for the night. An extra night drive between the dining area and the sturdy canvas of Tena Tena’s superlative tents keep the apex predators at bay. Two nights at Tena Tena with RPS is stretched to include an extra night at Nsefu. A love story is born.

Keith’s and my new love drives our choices over the next 11 years.

Fast forward five years. It’s September 2016. We doctors turn 50. We have been saving up our pennies. South Luangwa’s wildlife beckons us back. But this time, it’s the full package that we are after. It’s time to do this properly. Keith’s and my fascination with South Luangwa is infectious. My parents need no persuasion to join us as we sample the high life. Pat and Peter are keen to see how the other half live. In style.

Robin’s house is now our house. Not my brother’s (also called Robin) this time. The romance deepens. Obi, our guide and host, becomes our friend. Obi shares some truly magical experiences with us safari addicts. Leopards line our route. Elephants share our pool. Lions mate within stroking distance. Obi’s wise fingers rest on the ignition, ready to roar should the need arise. And the photos for Emily’s It’s Monday storyline have a romantic bent. Ginger mates in the shade of Obi’s Landcruiser.

The Valley draws us medics in deeper. A chance conversation piques our interest. The Valley needs doctors. Might you be interested? There was no need to ask twice. A retirement plan was born. Keith, a GP with tropical medical training and Tanzanian experience, hastily updates his CV. He realises that the job description already has his name on it. I am the perfect yang to Keith’s yin. My paediatric background almost more perfect for the Valley job. Seventeen being the average age in Zambia. We shared our voluntary service in Tanzania. We share a drive to share our skills.

Fast forward 5 more years. Keith and I are now head over heels. It’s July 2021. We are baptised as Valley docs. Our rich and varied experiences are well narrated in our captivating blog: Into Africa. https://keithandginnybirre.wixsite.com/intoafrica . We reflect on our highs and lows. We dig deep into the South Luangwan community. We share what makes us tick and what makes us despair. There is never a dull moment, but the trend is uplifting.

During our tenure, Keith and I are available 24/7 for guests and staff of safari operators in the Valley. We also work in the local clinic. Supporting the staff there to provide care for the whole valley. Jo Pope conceived of the Valley doctor in the 1990s and delivered the reality of a regular GP to care for the people of South Luangwa via the Luangwa Safari Association. Twenty years on, the Valley doctor continues to be a lifesaver. Don’t get me wrong, providing GP care in South Luangwa National Park is no picnic. The type of care that can be provided in the bush is hardly state of the art. But ailing tourists often state their amazement and gratitude for receiving access to care that exceeds their wildest dreams. Those who use the British NHS these days are stunned that care in our Valley is so accessible and up to the mark. We chronicle our encounters with tourists and locals, to colour in the preconceptions that you might have about sickness and health in South Luangwa.

Time marches on 2 more years. It’s 2023. The blog once again comes to life: Keith pulls the upper arm downwards and gently rotates the whole arm. A grating. Something shifts. Almost imperceptible. Certainly not a satisfying clunk. Britta, I think we may have sorted out your dislocated shoulder. Keith declares. Britta thanks our Valley doctor double act as we kick off our second stint in our Zambian second home. More weekly tales of challenge and joy unfurl. The blog writes itself. The colour of life in South Luangwa fills the screen.

The local clinic in Mfuwe brims over with everyday ills. Everyday ills that Zambia has not previously faced. Sky high blood pressures, diabetes, and metabolic time bombs. Strokes in the making. Not content to just be reactive to ill health, Keith and I have teamed up with Jo Pope’s other gift to the Valley: Project Luangwa. Project Luangwa was created under Jo’s patronage to empower local people through education and equality. Keith, myself and Project Luangwa have founded a programme to facilitate primary prevention of stroke in Zambia. Together we are tackling the huge unmet needs of local people. One episode of our blog gives you the back story and allows you to get involved:

https://keithandginnybirre.wixsite.com/intoafrica/post/faith-and-hope-and-charity

The pages keep turning. The third chapter of our blog is eagerly awaited. Keith and I will continue our love affair with Our Valley in July 2024. Until then: rest easy. Other dedicated medics also take their turns as valley doctors. The health of Our Valley is in safe hands. Thanks to these generous volunteers. Thanks to the conservation efforts of organisations like Project Luangwa, the Chipembele Wildlife Education Trust and Conservation South Luangwa. And thanks to the romance and the natural beauty of South Luangwa and her heritage of responsible tourism.

Keith and I will always have Robin Pope Safaris in our hearts. RPS guided us to find a new home. RPS nurtured our love affair.